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Lawrie0523
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Post subject: Waxing - Any ideas what I'm doing wrong??
Posted: Jul 21, 2011 - 09:04 PM
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First post: Nov 24, 2010
Total posts: 57
Status: Offline
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I hot waxed my board for the first time last week. Thought all had gone well.
Since then I have done two hours on the slope at Hemel and now my base looks white streaky and dry like it's never been waxed.
Any ideas where I might of gone wrong??
Process I followed was:-
1. Clean base
2. Wax and iron in
3. Leave for a few hours to dry
4. Scrape
5. repeat steps 2-4
6. Structure with scotchbrite pad and a nylon demon board brush.
Cheers! |
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corie1906
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Post subject: RE: Waxing - Any ideas what I
Posted: Jul 21, 2011 - 09:09 PM
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First post: Apr 28, 2009
Total posts: 1029
Status: Offline
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Was there a lot of carpet exposed on the lift? Can strip the wax off really quickly if there was.
Your wax regime looks fine to me, in fact you double up on the waxing bit I never do. Any reason why? Thinking about it the white streaky stuff might be the excess wax not the board drying out? |
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nickmotture
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Post subject: RE: Waxing - Any ideas what I
Posted: Jul 21, 2011 - 09:19 PM
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First post: Jan 09, 2006
Total posts: 10414
Location: Washington DC USA
Status: Offline
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Grill
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Post subject: RE: Waxing - Any ideas what I
Posted: Jul 21, 2011 - 09:22 PM
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First post: Jul 16, 2008
Total posts: 900
Status: Offline
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| I'd get rid of steps 3 and 5. Completely unnecessary. |
_________________ "Imagination is a quality given a man to compensate him for what he is not, and a sense of humor was provided to console him for what he is."
-Oscar Wilde
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winterfunman
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Post subject: RE: Waxing - Any ideas what I
Posted: Jul 21, 2011 - 09:30 PM
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First post: Apr 20, 2008
Total posts: 8914
Location: BANSKO ..........Bulgaria
Status: Offline
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Grill
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Post subject: RE: Waxing - Any ideas what I
Posted: Jul 21, 2011 - 09:36 PM
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First post: Jul 16, 2008
Total posts: 900
Status: Offline
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| The structure of a base will only absorb wax when hot as the heat is what causes striations to open to take wax. Extruded bases aren't really porous so wax stays on the surface as opposed to being absorbed. One the wax and base is cool (takes 3-5 minutes) there is no major absorption taking place. Scraping after 10 minutes or 10 hours isn't going to change much if anything, especially on an extruded board. |
_________________ "Imagination is a quality given a man to compensate him for what he is not, and a sense of humor was provided to console him for what he is."
-Oscar Wilde
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Sketchie
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Post subject:
Posted: Jul 22, 2011 - 01:15 AM
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First post: Jul 14, 2011
Total posts: 21
Status: Offline
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I have heard of a few people that have had white patches and streaks on the base of their boards..I too have this...So I did some research and found this >>>
Excess pressure at one of more points on the ski will mean an increase in wear in this area. The wax will be worn away faster. Typically this is seen on the base just under the skier's heel or mid-foot. With Nordic classic skis and the diagonal stride ski technique this is commonly seen because of the longer amount of time spent gliding on one ski with all of the skier's weight on that one ski. Excess wear can also be typically seen on the edges of skis (Alpine and Nordic) and snowboards. At the edges this is usually a reflection of very abrasive snow conditions that occur with man-made snow, very cold/hard snow or very aged (corn) snow.
Here's the link to the whole article >>>> http://www.skiwax.ca/tp/whitepatch.php
Hope this helps... |
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montyquaia
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Post subject:
Posted: Jul 22, 2011 - 01:28 AM
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First post: Mar 27, 2011
Total posts: 135
Location: NW London
Status: Offline
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| ive heard of people using a wax for cold conditions on the edges and a normal one for the rest just so it lasts an even amount of time |
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snowboardinghero
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Post subject:
Posted: Jul 22, 2011 - 08:00 AM
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First post: Jun 08, 2011
Total posts: 171
Status: Offline
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| Im going for a ride in a LOLacopter |
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Lawrie0523
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Post subject:
Posted: Jul 22, 2011 - 08:28 AM
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First post: Nov 24, 2010
Total posts: 57
Status: Offline
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Beers fitted in between steps 1 and 2 and at stage 3.
Not sure why I waxed twice, I'm sure I read it somewhere online, was a lot of effort, will probably only do it once in future.
Grill, my base is sintered does that change things at all?
I'm using an all-temp wax, would going to cold stuff help?
Thanks for all the advise so far! |
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cantridepete
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Post subject:
Posted: Jul 22, 2011 - 10:09 AM
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First post: Oct 28, 2008
Total posts: 2328
Location: Haute Savoie
Status: Offline
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i wouldnt overly worry about it, just give it a wax when it feels slow. Cold wax might be better, give it ago, no harm in trying.
Indoor slope snow can change depending on conditions (bizarrely) especially MK though so i'd probably stick with what you have  |
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ROBster
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Post subject:
Posted: Jul 22, 2011 - 11:54 AM
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First post: Oct 12, 2004
Total posts: 5993
Location: High Wycombe/Darlington
Status: Offline
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nickmotture
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Post subject:
Posted: Jul 22, 2011 - 12:17 PM
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First post: Jan 09, 2006
Total posts: 10414
Location: Washington DC USA
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rob_vet69
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Post subject:
Posted: Jul 22, 2011 - 01:13 PM
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First post: Jan 06, 2011
Total posts: 473
Location: Teeside
Status: Offline
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Have you considered immac or an epilator ?!
Seriosuly though, what you're doing sounds fine - although I agree with the point about step 3, I don't tend to leave it that long before I scrape. I would echo the point about indoor lifts/carpet - I find the wax does come off more quickly if there's a lot of carpet exposed at the top (which there sometimes is at Cas.) |
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FunkyMunky
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Post subject:
Posted: Jul 22, 2011 - 01:26 PM
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First post: Dec 09, 2009
Total posts: 783
Location: Harrogate
Status: Offline
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rob_vet69 wrote:
Have you considered immac or an epilator ?!
Seriosuly though, what you're doing sounds fine - although I agree with the point about step 3, I don't tend to leave it that long before I scrape. I would echo the point about indoor lifts/carpet - I find the wax does come off more quickly if there's a lot of carpet exposed at the top (which there sometimes is at Cas.)
There's more muffin top than carpet at Cas |
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