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cantridepete 
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Post subject:
 Posted: Jun 03, 2012 - 06:11 PM
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First post: Oct 28, 2008
Total posts: 2988
Location: Haute Savoie
Status: Offline
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sweet! just bought a Nikon D60  Well pleased, wont get my hands on it for a week which is a bit of a bummer but still i'm well happy with the choice  |
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Sidget
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Post subject:
Posted: Jun 11, 2012 - 09:27 PM
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First post: Sep 10, 2006
Total posts: 11083
Location: Under a lil rock
Status: Offline
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| After spending almost a grand on photography equipment over the years (not much compared to some i know), all i seem to do these days is take pictures of cats! |
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brace for satire
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Rabbitboy
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Post subject:
Posted: Jun 12, 2012 - 08:32 AM
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First post: Oct 11, 2004
Total posts: 1804
Location: Tamworth
Status: Offline
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*insert joke about sidget photographing pussies* (It's early and I'm being lazy)
I got a nice new lens at work last week! Canon EF 16-35mm 2.8 L II, finally got to use it yesterday.
I'm using the 16-35mm on a 5DMII first impression is it does have quite a bit of barrel distortion at 16mm. It shows up on my photos as I have a lot of straight lines, I don't think it would be that much of a problem in general use and can be corrected in PS / LR.
At around 20mm the distortion has dropped off, as with all L series lenses the build and feel is great.
I can only compare it to a 10-22mm EFS on crop sensor (which I have at home), the 10-22 has less distortion at 16mm, the build quality is on par with the L series lenses.
If you have a crop sensor camera and want/need a wide angle lens, I can not recommend the 10-22mm EFS enough! It's a fantastic lens and if it worked on a full frame body I would be using it!
I've used mine for years at the snowdome and abroad without a problem! |
_________________
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www.megapixlemedia.co.uk
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ruffers
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Post subject:
Posted: Sep 25, 2012 - 08:25 PM
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First post: Dec 13, 2004
Total posts: 210
Location: London
Status: Offline
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Just wondering if any of you take your dslr camera up the mountain? How much does it affect your riding? Do you generally spend more time taking pictures than riding and if not, does it restrict how you ride or what you, i.e. sticking to pistes.
I have just got a D50 off a mate, and I'm debating taking it away but I’d rather spend more time snowboarding than taking pictures, so thinking a compact point and shoot may be the better option, just like to hear other peoples experiences/opinions. |
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So long, and thanks for all the fish...
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dashie
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Post subject:
Posted: Sep 26, 2012 - 09:23 AM
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First post: Sep 24, 2007
Total posts: 4829
Location: stockport/dundee
Status: Offline
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| Every time I've ridden with someone bringing the DSLR its a very chilled day with a heavy back pack on for them. |
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Boobs, booze, snowboarding, in that order!
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CjKit
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Post subject:
Posted: Sep 26, 2012 - 09:35 AM
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First post: Nov 01, 2010
Total posts: 2130
Location: NW London
Status: Offline
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To be honest if I was going to be doing a lot of photography I'd be tempted to improve my skiing (  ) as it's much easier to stop, take a pic and carry on again. I've tried taking my SLR out with me on a day's snowboarding and unless you're willing to faff around a lot or just take it very easy I wouldn't bother with a large camera on a snowboard. |
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CjKitPhoto
Flickr
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ace_mcgraw
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Post subject:
Posted: Sep 26, 2012 - 09:52 AM
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First post: Feb 20, 2007
Total posts: 5384
Location: That snowboarding hotbed, Norfolk
Status: Offline
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I'd have to agree. If I was going to enjoy a day on the hill and take a few photos whilst cruising around I'd definitely get a compact. Compacts these days are easily good enough to take really good pictures for most uses. In fact, if you had a decent phone (iphone 4S/5, Samsung Galaxy SIII etc) i've noticed that their photos and videos are probably decent enough for recording your trip.
I'd only consider taking my camera and backpack out if I was really serious about setting up a photo shoot at a kicker or something, and then if that was the case I'd be wanting to take lighting and everything with me, or if I had mates who were really good at riding and I was looking to submit something for magazines etc, or if there was a specific landscape shot that I wanted and was prepared to take up my tripod and full set up! I definitely wouldn't take it for stopping and doing the odd snap here and there. |
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Fancy some lovely artwork ? www.ameliabowman.co.uk
Nice Photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/ace_mcgraw/
Need your iPhone 5 panorama's printed out large? ipanoramaprints.com/
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cantridepete
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Post subject:
Posted: Sep 26, 2012 - 10:34 AM
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First post: Oct 28, 2008
Total posts: 2988
Location: Haute Savoie
Status: Offline
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I dont think at any point in my life have i ever taken a snowboard photo  We get friends visit us and they take more photo's in a week than we take in an entire season  |
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ace_mcgraw
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Post subject:
Posted: Sep 26, 2012 - 11:02 AM
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First post: Feb 20, 2007
Total posts: 5384
Location: That snowboarding hotbed, Norfolk
Status: Offline
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| I know what you mean - I was in Canada snowboarding for 9 months. Thousands of photos, probably about 5% if that were of people snowboarding! |
_________________
Fancy some lovely artwork ? www.ameliabowman.co.uk
Nice Photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/ace_mcgraw/
Need your iPhone 5 panorama's printed out large? ipanoramaprints.com/
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charlie
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Post subject:
Posted: Sep 26, 2012 - 12:51 PM
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First post: Oct 11, 2004
Total posts: 9478
Location: York
Status: Offline
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If I take a DSLR up the hill I have to go up with taking pictures in mind and not riding much. For me there's very little point in taking a big camera up unless you're going to properly set up shots.
If you really plan on taking an SLR up and riding properly(ish) then your only real option is to have a top loading bag with a chest harness and putting the minimum amount of kit in it (i.e. one lens, batteries, cards, a cloth and a big ziplock plastic bag*). Camera backpacks mess up your balance a lot but are sometimes necessary if you're carrying lights etc. I'm not blowing my own trumpet but you need to be a good rider to follow your mates with a backpack on and get to good spots, with a chest bag not so much.
*Plastic bags are very useful to put your camera in and stopping condensation building up when you go from out in the cold to inside. Just don't open the bag until it's very similar temp to ambient. |
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Photography
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tortyv
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Post subject:
Posted: Sep 26, 2012 - 01:12 PM
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First post: Oct 15, 2009
Total posts: 4637
Location: Luton, UK
Status: Offline
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ace_mcgraw wrote:
I know what you mean - I was in Canada snowboarding for 9 months. Thousands of photos, probably about 5% if that were of people snowboarding!
haha same here. Three seasons and the majority of my photos include some form of alcohol and many drunken people. Having said that, my final season I made a concious effort to take a few more scenic and snowboard photos |
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"and fatigues soon ignored, as your feet hit the board, or the beat hits the floor, these are the moments that we live for"
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ruffers
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Post subject:
Posted: Sep 26, 2012 - 10:17 PM
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First post: Dec 13, 2004
Total posts: 210
Location: London
Status: Offline
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cheers all, I'm not that good a photographer to need light stands and all the rest of it to take magazine quality photo's.
The point and click it is then especially as I'd much prefer to be in the photos rather than taking them. |
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So long, and thanks for all the fish...
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specialman
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Post subject:
Posted: Oct 30, 2012 - 10:18 PM
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First post: Jul 17, 2007
Total posts: 199
Location: Rugby, Midlands, UK
Status: Offline
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I keep taking my full DSLR kit but end up having probably half a day where I'm in any kind of photography mode. Usually, i just shell out on a load of process-paid disposables and then cringe at the photos of people's bottoms (and my own) when we've been out on the lash
One day I will put the missus in her place and earn so many brownie points that I'm allowed away on my own to do a week of photos |
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ruffers
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Post subject:
Posted: Nov 05, 2012 - 09:12 PM
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First post: Dec 13, 2004
Total posts: 210
Location: London
Status: Offline
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After a bit of advice. She who must be obeyed has asked me to do some portrait-ish pictures of our daughter and her nephew. So, as a bit of research I have browsed the bastion of reliable information that is youtube and the rest of the internet for basic tips on how to do it.
Now the missus isn't expecting pro quality photos but wants a couple of good ones to turn into canvas pictures and i'm after any tips you guys can give me.
I have a Nikon D50, with a a Nikkor 18-55mm f1.35 - 5.6 and borrowing a 50mm f1.2 lens, I'm fairly comfortable using it in manual mode, also was intending on using a white sheet behind and the camera flash, and some form of spotlight to reduce the shadows. The pics will be taken indoors probably under normal indoor house lights.
any tips greatly appreciated, i don't have light stands or extra remote operated flash or light boxes
Cheers
Andy |
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So long, and thanks for all the fish...
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specialman
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Post subject:
Posted: Nov 05, 2012 - 10:40 PM
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First post: Jul 17, 2007
Total posts: 199
Location: Rugby, Midlands, UK
Status: Offline
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ruffers wrote:
After a bit of advice **SNIP/**....
First thing I'd do is crank the ISO to give you a decent shutter speed for the amount of light available and if using the kit lens, get it to full zoom - on a crop sensor camera that focal length will be more flattering because of less distortion. If you're on the 50mm f/1.2 I'd stop it down a bit - even on DX, f/1.2 is paper thin depth-of-field and if the focus isn't spot on it'll look a bit gash.
Then i'd take some natural light shots - you'll be surprised at the quality of light coming in through a window. If there's a net curtain on the window then better - it'll diffuse the light further, creating softer light that'll suit skin better.
Is the camera flash the built in, pop-up flash or is it one that sits on the hotshot? If it's the pop-up flash I'd not bother using it... the power won't be massive and it's head-on and can look very unflattering. If it's a hotshoe flash that has a swivelling head then twist it so you bounce the light off a wall or ceiling. This effectively creates a larger light source (although by bouncing you lose overall power) and therefore the shadows will be softer.
Also, a bit of crumpled tin foil wrapped around some cardboard makes a great reflector and can put a bit of extra light into shadowy areas if needs be. Don't kill the shadow completely though - shadow is what makes the light |
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