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p3eps 
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Post subject: Sharpening edges - help!
 Posted: Mar 03, 2010 - 05:18 PM
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First post: Dec 03, 2007
Total posts: 676
Status: Offline
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I'm currently out in Tremblant with my 07/08 Rome Agent. I've had it for 3 years now, but its only been used for about 30days of riding. It's 99% on piste so far as I'm still learning.
Anyway... It's a bit icey today and I find myself struggling to catch an edge, so I'm thinking they may need sharpened. I'm going to go buy an edge tool and have a go, but how sharp do I do them? I just want it to be like it was when it was new.
Any help appreciated... |
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philboarder
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Post subject:
Posted: Mar 03, 2010 - 06:19 PM
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First post: Jul 29, 2006
Total posts: 887
Status: Offline
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If youve got a black sharpie or marker run it down the edge before you sharpen then once youve used the edger on it the marker should be gone.
Or just feel it you should be able to tell the difference its not going to be as sharp as a knife but close |
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kriss
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Post subject:
Posted: Mar 03, 2010 - 08:02 PM
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First post: Aug 28, 2006
Total posts: 936
Status: Offline
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get an edging tool, i got the dakine one,
run it down one edge, then flip and repeat, just for general slopes it will be fine. |
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daniel.judge146
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Post subject:
Posted: Mar 03, 2010 - 08:34 PM
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First post: Jan 16, 2007
Total posts: 168
Location: Harlow
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most edging tools have 2 settings one is 88 degrees the other is 90 degrees, you want to use the 88 degree setting on the base, and the 90 degreee on the edges. The 88 degrees gives you a 2 degree edge bevel that is useful on the base as it keeps them out the way if you decide to hit rails or boxes.
Dont forget afterwards to use a stone to get rid of any burrs or rough spots all along the contact points of the base and edges of the metal. |
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DereksDontRun
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Post subject:
Posted: Mar 03, 2010 - 09:07 PM
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First post: Mar 09, 2009
Total posts: 1723
Location: The port of Stock
Status: Offline
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daniel.judge146 wrote:
most edging tools have 2 settings one is 88 degrees the other is 90 degrees, you want to use the 88 degree setting on the base, and the 90 degreee on the edges. The 88 degrees gives you a 2 degree edge bevel that is useful on the base as it keeps them out the way if you decide to hit rails or boxes.
Dont forget afterwards to use a stone to get rid of any burrs or rough spots all along the contact points of the base and edges of the metal.
to ask a dumb question... which side of the edging tool is the 88degree?
My Dakine has "90" on one side and "88" on the other - does that mean that side of the tool is that angle, or does it mean to have that print visible while you use the other side of the tool?
I've been using it with the 88 visible (so "88" upwards while running along the base of my board sharpening with the opposite side of the tool) and not had a big problem with my edges, but thought I'd ask a dumb question to check I'm probably doing it wrong...
btw - if anyone's interested in Diamond sharpeners or gummi-stones the cheapest I've found (so far) is here:
3pc Diamond sharpener set - £6.57
med abrasive rubber - £2.23
other gummi-stone equivalents:
v coarse abrasive rubber - £2.23
coarse abrasive rubber - £2.23
fine abrasive rubber - £2.23
generic/unknown abrasive rubber - £2.50 |
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p3eps
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Post subject:
Posted: Mar 04, 2010 - 01:16 AM
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First post: Dec 03, 2007
Total posts: 676
Status: Offline
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Thanks for the advice. I'm struggling to find a shop with a normal edge tool though! The Burton store have sold out,but have one at $70! I expected it to be about $10-15, so I left it.
We're going on a day trip to Montreal on Friday so hopefully I'll get a normal one there. |
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Mattylovesthewindchill
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Post subject:
Posted: Mar 04, 2010 - 03:10 AM
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First post: Jul 24, 2006
Total posts: 317
Status: Offline
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daniel.judge146 wrote:
most edging tools have 2 settings one is 88 degrees the other is 90 degrees, you want to use the 88 degree setting on the base, and the 90 degreee on the edges. The 88 degrees gives you a 2 degree edge bevel that is useful on the base as it keeps them out the way if you decide to hit rails or boxes.
Dont forget afterwards to use a stone to get rid of any burrs or rough spots all along the contact points of the base and edges of the metal.
I have to disagree with you there. If you do as you say, the angle of your edge will be 92. My understanding has always been that if you alter the bevel of your base edge, you need to alter the bevel of your side edge so that your edge always remains square. Anything over 90 you will start to lose grip. If tremblant is anywhere near as icy as people say, you dont want that.
Back to the orginal question, take the board for an overnight tune. |
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daniel.judge146
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Post subject:
Posted: Mar 04, 2010 - 11:33 AM
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First post: Jan 16, 2007
Total posts: 168
Location: Harlow
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DDR I have assumed that the side with the writing on is the measurement of that angle so when wanting the 88 degree I hold the 90 degree one towards me and the 88 towards the base, vice versa for the edges.
Matty, I'm going by a how to on Youtube that was talking about it and he was using a special file holder set at 88 degreees and gives him a 2 degree bevel and then he just used the same on the edges themselves. I see what you're saying though, so a way around it is to use the 88 degreee again on the edge as well. |
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Trying again, now I have a friend to Board with!
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daniel.judge146
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Post subject:
Posted: Mar 04, 2010 - 11:41 AM
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First post: Jan 16, 2007
Total posts: 168
Location: Harlow
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| That Farnell link requires minimum spend of £20 to pay on a credit card, no debit card options |
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Trying again, now I have a friend to Board with!
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DereksDontRun
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Post subject:
Posted: Mar 04, 2010 - 12:51 PM
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First post: Mar 09, 2009
Total posts: 1723
Location: The port of Stock
Status: Offline
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daniel.judge146 - you've used the magic word "assume" with those file-angles... Does anyone know for sure? the 2degree difference obviously makes such a massive difference if ppl are using different sides of the edge-tool and not having problems... (if I get round to it I'll bring into work and try to measure the angles on it to be sure).
oh and soz about the min spend for Farnell - use them for work so don't have that problem. Will see if I can find elsewhere...
*edit*
try this instead (don't think they have a min order):
med abrasive rubber - £2.60
RS should also do the diamond stones, but can't see atm. |
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feersum_endjinn
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Post subject:
Posted: Mar 05, 2010 - 05:40 AM
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First post: Dec 02, 2004
Total posts: 410
Location: Doune, Scotland
Status: Offline
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As matty says, there should be a 90 degree angle between the base face and the sidewall face of your edge. And since you're mainly piste based you should stick with a 90 degree angle, unless you really wanna hit rails?
The marker pen idea is a good one, never heard that before! What it tells you is that you ain't taking off very much.
A tool should be only 20 bucks or so, not 70 for sure, that's probably some kinda pro setup. |
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......paint a monkey gold n' let him loose down town, started with a smile he'll come back with a frown.......
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RatschBumm
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Post subject:
Posted: Mar 05, 2010 - 08:52 AM
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First post: Feb 25, 2010
Total posts: 20
Status: Offline
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Bakoda edge tool has 90° angle on the same side where the mark is. So, if you want 88° edge bevel, you must see 90° mark when you doing your work.
ps. 88° from side + 1° from base = 89°
so K2 Anagram, as park board, has 93° angle between base side of edge (not the base itself) and sidewall. |
_________________
English is more difficult to me than softboot-carving 
Sorry for your inconvenience
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d_owen
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Post subject:
Posted: Mar 05, 2010 - 12:59 PM
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First post: Nov 03, 2009
Total posts: 7
Status: Offline
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I've got a demon tool that works in a similar way . . . 90 angle is on the same side where the mark is. So if I'm doing an 88 edge the 88 mark is facing down and 90 mark is facing me.
Just a quick question though (sorry). I've left my base at 90 and the side edge at 88 so it's real responsive and for quick turns. I've detuned at the contact points . . . but is this set up going to be tricky to ride and make me face plant every 2 minutes? Is it worth going for 89 and taking 1 off the base. |
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RatschBumm
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Post subject:
Posted: Mar 05, 2010 - 02:13 PM
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First post: Feb 25, 2010
Total posts: 20
Status: Offline
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very major part of produced boards has 1° base bevel, so I doubt about your 90°. i've never heard about zero degree in shops, but I sure about 0,5° base bevel in some of alpine snowboards. maybe a few of these sectarians has 0° too ^-)
About yours question.
Try to increase your edge angle when you turn and do not take your board crossward. Try to ride in directional stance, this can help you to feel carve turns |
_________________
English is more difficult to me than softboot-carving
Sorry for your inconvenience
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Haydn
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Post subject:
Posted: Mar 05, 2010 - 06:21 PM
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First post: Sep 24, 2009
Total posts: 73
Location: The Derby
Status: Offline
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Quote:
to ask a dumb question... which side of the edging tool is the 88degree?
My Dakine has "90" on one side and "88" on the other - does that mean that side of the tool is that angle, or does it mean to have that print visible while you use the other side of the tool?
Thats a question ive been meaning to ask for ages. I too have a 88/90 tool but was never sure if i had it on the right side. I actually need a 89 to do my base bevel and side. If 89 base bevel is so popular from the factory why are so many standard sharpeners 88/90?? |
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