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iSnowboard 
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Post subject: servicing - i need tips please!
 Posted: Dec 21, 2009 - 10:56 AM
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First post: Nov 19, 2009
Total posts: 107
Location: Huddersfield/Brighouse
Status: Offline
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i have decided i am gonna start servicing my board, so it can be done when i want. what do i need to buy. i know all the basics, such as iron, wax, files etc, but i just don't know what specific items i need, if that makes any sense. i ride the rome headline 09/10. if anyone could give me tips on the following, i would be very grateful.
1) what angle do i need to do my edges to? i know there is a tool for 88 degrees and 90 degress. which one would i need for my headline?
2) what wax do i need. i know there are different waxes for different temp snow. i will be riding indoor, at xscape and places like that.
3) what are all the files and brushes i need?
4) how often should i service? i ride once/twice every fortnight for around 3-4 hours per time.
would also be helpful if someone could tell me what i do with each file etc.
i know im asking a lot, i'm sorry :p
thanks again if you're willing to help me out.
sam.[/url] |
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ColdSeeker
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Post subject: RE: servicing - i need tips please!
Posted: Dec 21, 2009 - 11:40 AM
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First post: Nov 03, 2008
Total posts: 28
Location: Staffs
Status: Offline
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Your angles depend on what conditions your riding so if its icy you want a 90 degree if its softer stuff like powder you 88 degree
if your riding indoors a lot i would recommend a good all temp wax like toko and maybe a rub on wax,
you will need and edge file which is used for the edge (duh) a base brush which use before waxing to pull out any dry wax from before, a wax scraper to get any excess wax off and a polishing rag if your vain like me
if you service once a month but use a bit of paste wax before each session you will be fine
if you like get one of the demon, or dakine tuning kits the mega tuning kit i think has everything short of ptex and paste wax or you can get a smaller kit and a travel iron from 3 argos just make sure your iron has a temprature gauge
people feel free to correct me |
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iSnowboard
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Post subject: RE: servicing - i need tips please!
Posted: Dec 21, 2009 - 02:43 PM
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First post: Nov 19, 2009
Total posts: 107
Location: Huddersfield/Brighouse
Status: Offline
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| what about stones to also file down the edges after, what type do i need for that? |
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richn
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Post subject:
Posted: Dec 21, 2009 - 03:32 PM
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First post: Apr 03, 2008
Total posts: 244
Location: NZ
Status: Offline
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Dylanrobinson
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Post subject: Re: RE: servicing - i need tips please!
Posted: Dec 21, 2009 - 04:27 PM
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First post: Apr 22, 2009
Total posts: 938
Location: Bolton / Edinburgh
Status: Offline
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ColdSeeker wrote:
Your angles depend on what conditions your riding so if its icy you want a 90 degree if its softer stuff like powder you 88 degree
I can't imagine 2deg makes a noticeable difference. |
_________________
I've you've ever riden Cairngorm please show your support for the revival of the Ciste and West Wall chairlifts. I'm sure you'll agree they need saving.
http://www.savetheciste.com/
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ColdSeeker
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Post subject: RE: Re: RE: servicing - i need tips please!
Posted: Dec 21, 2009 - 11:11 PM
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First post: Nov 03, 2008
Total posts: 28
Location: Staffs
Status: Offline
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Me Neither but that is what i was told when I brought my servicing stuff mine just sit at 88 cause sharp edges and rails = pain
and in answer to your question its still the edge file because all your doing there is blunting your edges again |
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chrisp_1
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Post subject: Tip - You can definately do this yourself
Posted: Dec 22, 2009 - 12:12 AM
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First post: Nov 29, 2009
Total posts: 10
Status: Offline
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Confused by the plethora of info on the net  then no worries, I assure you it's not that difficult...
My simple kit consists of:-
88/90 degree edge file (as you mentioned),
fine sandpaper (120 grit) with sanding block,
p'tex (for repairs),
wax scraper (anything with sharp flat edge, ie plastic ruler)
gummi stone (rubber block impregnated with grit),
nylon nail brush (structuring the wax/base),
stanley knife blade,
wax,
wax iron,
My method:
1- Rub down the base with sandpaper using sanding block, the aim is to remove any burrs/blemishes/wax protruding from your base to create a nice dull, even finish. Sanding should be done from tail to tip NOT edge to edge (do not try to remove gouges etc by sanding).
2- Grab a stick of P'tex and set it alight at one end with a cigarette lighter. Once it sustains a flame hold it over any gouges in your base and working from one end of the gouge 'drag / trail' the P'tex along the line requiring filling at a height of about 0.5 cm. The P'tex will drip into the hole and self level. Ensure that the cavity is properly filled with the dripping hot P'tex (do not worry about overfilling).
3- Take stanley knife blade and carefully hold it with two hands at a slight 'acute' (5 degrees or less) angle to the base and force slowly forward to remove any overfill from P'tex repair work.
4- Once all overfill is removed lightly sand the base (tip to tail) to create a flat surface with a dull finish across the whole base with-out obvious blemishes.
5- Run a gummi stone or diamond file across your base and side edges to remove any burrs before filing.
6- Take a sharp file and run across your base edges from tip to tail to remove any scratches - if unsure on technique colour your edges with a marker pen and repeat until you cannot see the ink. The edges here are usually bevelled away from the the base by 1-2 degrees, so you do not catch edges all the time. See you tube for videos if unsure.
7- Using an edge file remove burrs and scratches from both edges (working tail to tip) to create your angle of choice (88, 89, 90 degrees).
Your base should now be flat and edges sharp to touch. Time to clean the base.
8- run a nylon brush (or something more professional) from tail to tip along the board several times to remove any filings etc from the base. Then wipe with a damp cloth etc to be sure.
9- Take your wax iron and apply a basic wax liberally to the base (by dripping from the iron). Working tail to tip spread the wax to achieve a good (liberal) coating all-over the base.
10- Now use your iron on a slightly hotter setting (mine 130-140 degrees) to melt the wax you have just applied to leave 6 - 10 inches of wet trails. Whilst the wax is wet use a scraper to remove the hot wax (and dirt:-) from your base). I tend to do 1/3 rd of a board at a time from tail to tip.
11- Continue to scrape the base until all wax and dirt is removed. You may repeat this step until the wax comes off clean!
12. Once you are happy that your base is clean, edges sharp and excess wax removed then use your gummi stone (tail to tip) along each edge to polish. Ensure that all rust / tarnishing is gone and edges are sharp whilst you work, if necessary get out your file again and brush base clean again when finished.
13 - Apply final coat of wax using iron and allow to dry for 30 mins or so.
14- Scrape off all excess wax from base using tail to tip movements until no-more wax can be removed.
15- Use a nylon brush to repeatedly brush the base / wax from tail to tip. This will remove any excess wax and at the same time provide a nice structure (grooved front to rear) in your base/wax, hence removing drag and surface tension caused by snow/water.
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