Snowboard Club UK (SCUK)

Equipment and Media - Sharpening edges - help!

p3eps - Mar 03, 2010 - 05:18 PM
Post subject: Sharpening edges - help!

I'm currently out in Tremblant with my 07/08 Rome Agent. I've had it for 3 years now, but its only been used for about 30days of riding. It's 99% on piste so far as I'm still learning.

Anyway... It's a bit icey today and I find myself struggling to catch an edge, so I'm thinking they may need sharpened. I'm going to go buy an edge tool and have a go, but how sharp do I do them? I just want it to be like it was when it was new.

Any help appreciated...

philboarder - Mar 03, 2010 - 06:19 PM
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If youve got a black sharpie or marker run it down the edge before you sharpen then once youve used the edger on it the marker should be gone.

Or just feel it you should be able to tell the difference its not going to be as sharp as a knife but close

kriss - Mar 03, 2010 - 08:02 PM
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get an edging tool, i got the dakine one,

run it down one edge, then flip and repeat, just for general slopes it will be fine.

daniel.judge146 - Mar 03, 2010 - 08:34 PM
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most edging tools have 2 settings one is 88 degrees the other is 90 degrees, you want to use the 88 degree setting on the base, and the 90 degreee on the edges. The 88 degrees gives you a 2 degree edge bevel that is useful on the base as it keeps them out the way if you decide to hit rails or boxes.

Dont forget afterwards to use a stone to get rid of any burrs or rough spots all along the contact points of the base and edges of the metal.

DereksDontRun - Mar 03, 2010 - 09:07 PM
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daniel.judge146 wrote:

to ask a dumb question... which side of the edging tool is the 88degree?

My Dakine has "90" on one side and "88" on the other - does that mean that side of the tool is that angle, or does it mean to have that print visible while you use the other side of the tool?

I've been using it with the 88 visible (so "88" upwards while running along the base of my board sharpening with the opposite side of the tool) and not had a big problem with my edges, but thought I'd ask a dumb question to check I'm probably doing it wrong...

btw - if anyone's interested in Diamond sharpeners or gummi-stones the cheapest I've found (so far) is here:

3pc Diamond sharpener set - £6.57
med abrasive rubber - £2.23

other gummi-stone equivalents:
v coarse abrasive rubber - £2.23
coarse abrasive rubber - £2.23
fine abrasive rubber - £2.23
generic/unknown abrasive rubber - £2.50

p3eps - Mar 04, 2010 - 01:16 AM
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Thanks for the advice. I'm struggling to find a shop with a normal edge tool though! The Burton store have sold out,but have one at $70! I expected it to be about $10-15, so I left it.
We're going on a day trip to Montreal on Friday so hopefully I'll get a normal one there.

Mattylovesthewindchill - Mar 04, 2010 - 03:10 AM
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daniel.judge146 wrote:

I have to disagree with you there. If you do as you say, the angle of your edge will be 92. My understanding has always been that if you alter the bevel of your base edge, you need to alter the bevel of your side edge so that your edge always remains square. Anything over 90 you will start to lose grip. If tremblant is anywhere near as icy as people say, you dont want that.

Back to the orginal question, take the board for an overnight tune.

daniel.judge146 - Mar 04, 2010 - 11:33 AM
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DDR I have assumed that the side with the writing on is the measurement of that angle so when wanting the 88 degree I hold the 90 degree one towards me and the 88 towards the base, vice versa for the edges.

Matty, I'm going by a how to on Youtube that was talking about it and he was using a special file holder set at 88 degreees and gives him a 2 degree bevel and then he just used the same on the edges themselves. I see what you're saying though, so a way around it is to use the 88 degreee again on the edge as well.

daniel.judge146 - Mar 04, 2010 - 11:41 AM
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That Farnell link requires minimum spend of £20 to pay on a credit card, no debit card options

DereksDontRun - Mar 04, 2010 - 12:51 PM
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daniel.judge146 - you've used the magic word "assume" with those file-angles... Does anyone know for sure? the 2degree difference obviously makes such a massive difference if ppl are using different sides of the edge-tool and not having problems... (if I get round to it I'll bring into work and try to measure the angles on it to be sure).

oh and soz about the min spend for Farnell - use them for work so don't have that problem. Will see if I can find elsewhere...

*edit*
try this instead (don't think they have a min order):
med abrasive rubber - £2.60
RS should also do the diamond stones, but can't see atm.

feersum_endjinn - Mar 05, 2010 - 05:40 AM
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As matty says, there should be a 90 degree angle between the base face and the sidewall face of your edge. And since you're mainly piste based you should stick with a 90 degree angle, unless you really wanna hit rails?
The marker pen idea is a good one, never heard that before! What it tells you is that you ain't taking off very much.
A tool should be only 20 bucks or so, not 70 for sure, that's probably some kinda pro setup.

RatschBumm - Mar 05, 2010 - 08:52 AM
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Bakoda edge tool has 90° angle on the same side where the mark is. So, if you want 88° edge bevel, you must see 90° mark when you doing your work.
ps. 88° from side + 1° from base = 89°
so K2 Anagram, as park board, has 93° angle between base side of edge (not the base itself) and sidewall.

d_owen - Mar 05, 2010 - 12:59 PM
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I've got a demon tool that works in a similar way . . . 90 angle is on the same side where the mark is. So if I'm doing an 88 edge the 88 mark is facing down and 90 mark is facing me.

Just a quick question though (sorry). I've left my base at 90 and the side edge at 88 so it's real responsive and for quick turns. I've detuned at the contact points . . . but is this set up going to be tricky to ride and make me face plant every 2 minutes? Is it worth going for 89 and taking 1 off the base.

RatschBumm - Mar 05, 2010 - 02:13 PM
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very major part of produced boards has 1° base bevel, so I doubt about your 90°. i've never heard about zero degree in shops, but I sure about 0,5° base bevel in some of alpine snowboards. maybe a few of these sectarians has 0° too ^-)
About yours question.
Try to increase your edge angle when you turn and do not take your board crossward. Try to ride in directional stance, this can help you to feel carve turns Smile

Haydn - Mar 05, 2010 - 06:21 PM
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Quote:

Thats a question ive been meaning to ask for ages. I too have a 88/90 tool but was never sure if i had it on the right side. I actually need a 89 to do my base bevel and side. If 89 base bevel is so popular from the factory why are so many standard sharpeners 88/90??

RatschBumm - Mar 06, 2010 - 01:39 PM
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for flat and jibbing?

Cleveland_Steamer - Mar 08, 2010 - 10:59 AM
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I wouldn't go sharpening the base side of your edge if I were you...

In terms of the side edge - The 90deg angle is standard and probably your best bet. 88deg is for more of an aggressive/advanced bight, it's good for hard pack, ice and speed.

The marker pen idea is good. The final test is to get a fingernail and rub it gently up against the edge in a few places - if it's sharp you'll peal back a bit of your nail.

p3eps - Mar 09, 2010 - 06:11 PM
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I'm home now Sad

I just soldiered on with my slightly blunt board as the temps increased up to 7 deg C over the last few days and the snow started melting at an alarming rate! By the end the snow was like thick pea soup, so sharp edges were no longer a necessity!

I've just ordered an edge tuner from ebay... it does 87, 88, 89 and 90 degree edges - and cost £15. I think I'll go for 89 as they have down 90 - 89 for beginners, 89-88 for intermediate and 88-87 as advanced... so I guess I'm somewhere between beginner and intermediate.

Once it arrives I'll probably have more questions - and then I'll need to give both our boards a good coat of wax before I put them away until next season Surprised

p3eps - Mar 16, 2010 - 05:56 PM
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Right folks... I got my edge tuner in the post today.
Am I correct in assuming that the BASE is my reference point - not the top sheet?

Cleveland_Steamer - Mar 17, 2010 - 09:18 AM
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Yes, base as a reference. The flat plastic area of the tool on the base and the file cutting the side edge.

ChasKi - Mar 17, 2010 - 03:04 PM
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p3eps, is your edge tuner a file guide?

I'm interest if you wouldn't mind sharing which ebay shop/seller you got it from (if they have any more)!

At the mo, B's tool is looking to be the cheapest variable degree tool, as it does both base + side edge and I can't seem to find anything that just does one or other for under £25.

B's tool: http://www.ss20.com/pp/Snowboard_Hardwa ... 60.00.html

p3eps - Mar 17, 2010 - 03:09 PM
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Cleveland_Steamer wrote:

Yes, base as a reference. The flat plastic area of the tool on the base and the file cutting the side edge.

Perfect... cheers.
Next stupid question...
I guess I just do the edges - without doing the tip or tail?!
So about 80% of the board?

p3eps - Mar 17, 2010 - 03:13 PM
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ChasKi wrote:

p3eps, is your edge tuner a file guide?

I'm interest if you wouldn't mind sharing which ebay shop/seller you got it from (if they have any more)!

The ebay seller is 'jibtuning'. Not sure if they have any more. Its an 'Easy Sharp Edge Tuning Tool'

Cleveland_Steamer - Mar 17, 2010 - 03:43 PM
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p3eps wrote:

I guess I just do the edges - without doing the tip or tail?!
So about 80% of the board?

Yes. Take your board and lie it right-way-up on a flat surface. the section you want to sharpen is from where the board touches the ground at the front to where it touches the ground at the back (assuming it's regular camber). Basically most of the concave section.