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Snowboard Club UK (SCUK) FAQs (frequently-asked questions)
Category: Main -> Equipment -> Tuning & Maintenance
Ask any rider how often they tune their board and chances are theyíll answer, Ďnot often enoughí. Itís all too easy to just hand your board over to a shop tech a couple of times a season and let it (not) slide the rest of the time. But become a home tech-head, and youíll learn about the way your snowboard works, save money and ride better and faster than your friends. Better yet, as you learn more, youíll work out how to tune your board to suit your own riding style. So what more do you need to know?Back to top
Cleaning the base
Before servicing your stick, you need to make it tune-ready. That means checking the board for obvious burrs, dirt and stray p-tex before you start. Use a cloth or damp rag to wipe clean the base and youíre ready to go.
Your next step to a faster, more responsive board is by sorting out your edges. In tech-speak, edges are referred to as the base edge (closest to the, ahem, base) and the side edge (closest to the top-sheet). Starting at one contact point (the place where the board meets the snow at the tip and tail on each rail) place your edge file and draw it down using sharp, short strokes until you reach the other contact point. Donít force the file Ė simply use itís weight to do the job. Youíre aiming for an even sharpness from tip to tail. Repeat for each rail.
Today, waxing as almost a science and itís possible to buy a million different waxes for different snow conditions. But the bottom line is that waxing your board makes it faster. Period. Thatís because the more you ride, the more the friction between your base and the snow causes your board to lose speed. The solution? Wax. If itís your first time, get an old-timer to help you out.
Scraping comes next. Some people like to wax their boards the night before, leave it in a warm place overnight and then scrape it just before they ride in the morning. Others like to let the wax set and then scrape straight away. Either way, scraping is essential if you want your steed to perform. You can buy a decent scraper from any snowboarding shop. Scrape the wax off with this using strong downward strokes until the excess wax has come off in flakes. Be warned: scraping is best done outside, as warm, sticky wax can fly around. Scrap from nose to tail.
So why should you bother to wax and edge your board anyway? For one thing, itíll help you ride better. Itís a simple fact that a freshly-waxed and edged stick is faster and more responsive than a board thatís been left rotting in the shed all summer. Slowing down on flat spots? Wax it. Canít get enough speed or control on a backside transition? Sharpen those edges. Riding a park in the spring? Youíre gonna need wax.
Question from "ACE"
We have just bought new boards hence membership to this site, would you suggest we wax asap or ride till wrecked then wax or would you want to keep the graphic on the bottom of the board in mint?????
Its always good to wax your board and i'd suggest waxing it before you even ride it for the first time. For starters it protects the board (especially on Dryslope) and makes it go faster but be sure to know what the riding conditions are before waxing it (Indoor snow? or summer snow, powder etc..) as each different condition requires a different temperature wax.
Question from "pgf21" how do you set up your boots in the correct place with the bindings
I presume you are referring to placement of bindings on the Board? Well usually the stance width is something you feel comfortable with, but not too small or it gives you a goofy looking style, and not to wide as the board wont work the way it was designed for (mainly when riding around). I'm 6'0" and ride with a 21/22" stance. I'm sure you can search around the internet to find the setup's of some Pro snowboarders or just browse through the profiles on www.soulsports.co.uk as riders describe their setups. As for angles, its advisable to have both bindings pointing forward (ie not duck stance, which isnt good for the knees and only really benefits you if your riding switch alot). Suggested starting angles would be around +6 degrees on your back foot, +24degrees on your front foot. Once your up and riding you'll soon notice if it needs tweaking.
Question by "Skid180" We have just come back from abroad, where powder was scarce but the rocks and stones were not. We now have many scratches on our boards. How do we get them out?
You really need to assess the damage. If we're talking gouges down to the core, your best bet if a professional service. This will repair any damage and finish with a base grind that takes a fraction of a mm off the base of your board to remove all those other scratches in the process.
Question by "Porkpie" How do you de-tune a new snowboard? Which part of the edge do you take away the sharpness? Where do you start/stop? Is it really necessary?
De-tuning a board is essential, otherwise the edges catch when your riding making it a bit of a rollercoaster ride.
What's the best way to dry your board after going riding? Just with a towel or leave to dry it to dry itself?
You need to make sure your board is dry before you store it away to prevent rust forming on the steel edges. The easiest way is with a towel or cloth, but if it dries fairly quickly naturally then that will do. If you're storing it in the garage or shed or somewhere else a bit damp then it's more important to dry it first. If it lives on the wall in your bedroom, then it's not so important as it'll dry anyway.
I've just bought my first board and I'm confident I've got the right board to help me progress, but I need as much help as possible to kow how to set it up. I'm only using the local dryslope, and wont get a chance to go on snow till the end of the year, do you think you could give me as much help as possible about tuning and waxing so that I get the most from the board?
All the info you require should be on this page, if not best ask your local dealer... its always good to chat face to face with people about such things
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