Snowboard Club UK (SCUK) FAQs (frequently-asked questions)

Ask any rider how often they tune their board and chances are they’ll answer, ‘not often enough’. It’s all too easy to just hand your board over to a shop tech a couple of times a season and let it (not) slide the rest of the time. But become a home tech-head, and you’ll learn about the way your snowboard works, save money and ride better and faster than your friends. Better yet, as you learn more, you’ll work out how to tune your board to suit your own riding style. So what more do you need to know?

Before servicing your stick, you need to make it tune-ready. That means checking the board for obvious burrs, dirt and stray p-tex before you start. Use a cloth or damp rag to wipe clean the base and you’re ready to go.

Your next step to a faster, more responsive board is by sorting out your edges. In tech-speak, edges are referred to as the base edge (closest to the, ahem, base) and the side edge (closest to the top-sheet). Starting at one contact point (the place where the board meets the snow at the tip and tail on each rail) place your edge file and draw it down using sharp, short strokes until you reach the other contact point. Don’t force the file – simply use it’s weight to do the job. You’re aiming for an even sharpness from tip to tail. Repeat for each rail.
Some riders also like to hone their edges using a diamond stone. It’s a similar process and will finish the edging job by removing the last irregularities from each rail. Now it’s time to wax…

Today, waxing as almost a science and it’s possible to buy a million different waxes for different snow conditions. But the bottom line is that waxing your board makes it faster. Period. That’s because the more you ride, the more the friction between your base and the snow causes your board to lose speed. The solution? Wax. If it’s your first time, get an old-timer to help you out.
You’ll need an old iron, your wax, and a flat, steady surface. After cleaning your board, place it base-side up. Heat your iron so it is on a low setting, warm enough to melt the wax but not so hot it’ll burn your base. Run your iron over the base, to prepare it for the wax, and then, with the nose of the iron pointing down, melt the wax onto your base. Pay particular attention to the edge areas and the head of the nose and tail. As the wax hits the base, it will cool down and set quickly. Once you have a good covering, use the iron to spread the wax all over the base until it is covered all over. When that’s done, let it cool down and set. Let the heat of the iron work the wax into the base, but keep a check on how warm the board is getting by feeling the underside (top sheet) with your hand. It should be warm but not uncomfortable to touch.

Scraping comes next. Some people like to wax their boards the night before, leave it in a warm place overnight and then scrape it just before they ride in the morning. Others like to let the wax set and then scrape straight away. Either way, scraping is essential if you want your steed to perform. You can buy a decent scraper from any snowboarding shop. Scrape the wax off with this using strong downward strokes until the excess wax has come off in flakes. Be warned: scraping is best done outside, as warm, sticky wax can fly around. Scrap from nose to tail.

So why should you bother to wax and edge your board anyway? For one thing, it’ll help you ride better. It’s a simple fact that a freshly-waxed and edged stick is faster and more responsive than a board that’s been left rotting in the shed all summer. Slowing down on flat spots? Wax it. Can’t get enough speed or control on a backside transition? Sharpen those edges. Riding a park in the spring? You’re gonna need wax.
And what about riding rails? Well that’s another matter. Many pros who shred rails have been known to blunt and detune their edges as much as possible, to avoid catching an edge on a metal rail and paying the harsh price. Some riders even have a solitary rail
One thing’s for sure: knowing as much as possible about the way your board works in every situation and how to increase it’s performance can only make you a better, stronger rider.

Its always good to wax your board and i'd suggest waxing it before you even ride it for the first time. For starters it protects the board (especially on Dryslope) and makes it go faster but be sure to know what the riding conditions are before waxing it (Indoor snow? or summer snow, powder etc..) as each different condition requires a different temperature wax.

Contact: Snowboard Klink at http://www.klinik.co.uk/ as they will be able to assist with which wax or alternatively ask in your local shop.
...answered by stu

I presume you are referring to placement of bindings on the Board? Well usually the stance width is something you feel comfortable with, but not too small or it gives you a goofy looking style, and not to wide as the board wont work the way it was designed for (mainly when riding around). I'm 6'0" and ride with a 21/22" stance. I'm sure you can search around the internet to find the setup's of some Pro snowboarders or just browse through the profiles on www.soulsports.co.uk as riders describe their setups. As for angles, its advisable to have both bindings pointing forward (ie not duck stance, which isnt good for the knees and only really benefits you if your riding switch alot). Suggested starting angles would be around +6 degrees on your back foot, +24degrees on your front foot. Once your up and riding you'll soon notice if it needs tweaking.
As for stance position, you need to set it back from the centre of the "effective edge", usually about 1 to 2 inches is suitable for normal riding. To know which way to go is best described as: dryslope/indoor more to the center, and powder set more back from centre so that it lifts the nose of the board up without you leaning back.

If your question was about the boots in the actual binding... well, make sure you have the right size boots for the bindings and then place your boots strapped into the bindings (not you though), so you can look down the lenght of the board and assess if the overhang on the toe/heel is even. If not then adjust accordingly.

by Stu Brass

You really need to assess the damage. If we're talking gouges down to the core, your best bet if a professional service. This will repair any damage and finish with a base grind that takes a fraction of a mm off the base of your board to remove all those other scratches in the process.

If they're not that bad, then you can fill them yourself. It's quite fun. First prepare the scratches by removing any burrs and loose bits. Melt ptex sticks into the scratch and allow to dry. Then file and scrape level. Have a search for snowboard "base repairs" on the internet and you'll find detailed instructions. One top tip is to hold the burning ptex candle close to your base as this stops it oxidising and dripping smoked ptex onto you base, which can look a right mess.

If it's just scratches, then don't worry too much. A simple wax will fill the worst of them and they won't make too much different to the performance of the board anyway.

By Dunx

De-tuning a board is essential, otherwise the edges catch when your riding making it a bit of a rollercoaster ride.
To do this you need a file and basically when the board is on the floor put a mark on the board where the 4 corners touch the floor. Then file about 1 inch either side of the mark so that its no longer sharp, in fact you'll be as well going right round the nose and tail so that its not sharp if you happen to hit anyone.
If your still stuck visit a local snowboard shop and they should be able to help you out.

by Stu Brass

You need to make sure your board is dry before you store it away to prevent rust forming on the steel edges. The easiest way is with a towel or cloth, but if it dries fairly quickly naturally then that will do. If you're storing it in the garage or shed or somewhere else a bit damp then it's more important to dry it first. If it lives on the wall in your bedroom, then it's not so important as it'll dry anyway.

Some boards, like the Custom X, have stainless steel edges, so it's not an issue.

If you do get surface rust form on your edges then you can normally get it off just by riding. It's when the edges really start to rust you'll need to get the file on it or deburring stone, depending on how bad you've let it get.

All the info you require should be on this page, if not best ask your local dealer... its always good to chat face to face with people about such things

http://www.snowboardclub.co.uk/FAQ-index-myfaq-yes-id_cat-57.html